BESPOKE TAILORING

A PERSONAL TAILORING SERVICE

Phillip Alexander - Bespoke Tailors A suit is the most elegant clothing you can wear. And you look your best in a suit, but not in any suit. It has to fit your shape, as well as your size and in a style that suits you. That means it has to be individually tailored. The suit also has to be the right suit for the right occasion, the season the climate and the time of the day. Also it has to be the right colour and the right fabric.

BESPOKE

The word “bespoke” is the past tense of “bespeak” which means to order; therefore made to order; or custom made. The term was also said to be used to refer to lengths of cloths held by tailors that were “spoken for” by clients.

BESPOKE SUIT

Hand Made Bespoke Suit An individually hand cut garment, cut to the clients specific style, measurements and shape; fitted by an experienced cutter or tailor, often with several fittings and hand tailored by a coat maker, using time honoured traditional skills. The trousers are made by a master trouser maker. This is not just a made to measure suit; click on to Making a Bespoke Suit for further info.

FABRICS

We have over 7000 samples, from traditional 100% Wool Worsted, Cashmeres, Super 120’s and 150’s to Scottish Tweeds and Irish Linens to New Zealand Marino Wools and luxurious Mink and Cashmere mix. From 8oz super lightweights to 17/18oz tweeds. Coupled with a large range of stunningly colourful and fancy linings, this gives you a wonderful range to design your garment from.

TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS

Once you have carefully selected the fabric, we have to take your detailed measurements. This is obvious. But what may not be obvious is that we need up to 28 individual measurements, and your patience whilst we go through this process. This details your size; but what is more complicated, is to assess and record your individual shape 'see below'. Of course we have to decide on the type and style of garment; click on to Style & Design for further info.

NOTING YOUR SHAPE

There are no two people the same shape; we are all different. We even stand differently; if you tend to stoop, your jacket will stick out at the back and it will be higher at the back than the front. If you are portly, your jacket may rise at the front or you could have a combination of both, in which case it will just not fit. Your shoulders may slope a little more than average, which would require the holes for your sleeves to be lower to correspond to your shape, or you may have square shoulders which can cause a crease below the collar; and so on etc. All these and many more characteristics denote our individual client’s shapes, which we carefully identify and note down. And this is just the jacket. These characteristics are referred to as the Configuration. You will not have to apologise for a protruding stomach or a round back; from now on, your garments will fit perfectly.

MAKING A PATTERN

From the detailed measurements and details of the configuration, a plan is made of each panel of the suit, using the Block (basic pattern) that has been tried and tested over many years. There are up to 52 separate panels. These are responsible for the “good cut” of the suit. Each panel is cut and shaped according to your individual size and configuration. This provides the overall plan of the suit.

FORMAL WEAR

Strict codes used to apply, but these days those rules are not rigidly adhered to. But it is useful to know the difference between a "black tie" a "tuxedo" and a "full evening dress". And when should you wear a black rather than grey morning coat? Click on to Formal Wear for more information.

SERVICE

Making a bespoke suit is a long process. From the initial consultation to final fitting takes some eight weeks. Click on to Making a Bespoke Suit for further information.

TAILORED SHIRTS

A good shirt can say as much about you as your suit. The right fabric, the right cut and individually tailored to your exact size and shape. And incorporating those individual little features you personally like makes it a distinct pleasure to wear. Click on to Shirts for more information.

CASUAL GARMENTS

Dressing down should never be dressing badly. But it is more difficult to achieve an elegant and dignified appearance with casual garments, than with the more formal suit. Click on to Smart Casual for more information.