ABOUT SUITS

A LITTLE BACKGROUND

Suits The suit as we know it today originated in England at the end of the nineteenth century. And right up to the end of the nineteen forties, London led the world in men’s fashion. And that’s a history to be proud of; the best tailors are still in England. The Americans, the French and particularly the Italians have developed their own style, which has influenced men’s fashion the world over; but every suit, every jacket, whether mass produced or individually made, has been copied, in one form or another from the original English suit.

EXCLUSIVITY

Almost every Royal household in the world is catered for by a Savile Row tailor, using British fabrics. English tailors are also serving discerning clients from New York to Tokyo, from Milan to Paris. England still leads the world in tailoring.

A WELL CUT SUIT

A good suit has to be “well-cut”, which means that the block (basic pattern), has been tried and tested over many many years, with which the garment is cut. Irrespective of the style or fashion you choose, the garment has to follow and compliment your shape. This provides a degree of elegance that only an individually tailored garment based on a good pattern can provide.

LOUNGE AND BUSINESS SUITS; SINGLE BREASTED

Suits originally came with a jacket, trousers and a vest. The two piece suit however is the most popular these days. It can be two or three buttoned, with one centre or two side vents. Some have no vents, but this requires the garment to be looser, which doesn’t suit everyone.

The vents allow a more shaped silhouette to the garment and a better drape even when the wearer is on the move or sitting. He can also put his hand in his trouser pocket and still maintain a good drape to the suit. Continental suits tend not to have vents, perhaps because they consider putting your hands in your trouser pocket unacceptable.

The single breasted jacket of a suit derives from the hacking jacket. Originally with slanted pockets and flaps and a single centre vent. The slanted pockets made it easier to access the pocket whilst seated on a horse and the flaps helped to keep the pockets dry; and the single centre vent allowed the garment to drape either side of the horse whilst riding.

DOUBLE BREASTED SUITS

Double breasted suits have extra fabric on the front of the garment, allowing them to wrap over each other at the front, hence double breasted; and with their two rows of buttons, their military heritage is obvious. Normally with six buttons showing at the front, of which either one or two buttons actually fasten; depending whether a low or higher opening is required. Some fashion garments may have eight or even ten buttons, but six is the norm. And a double breasted suit should have two side vents, not a centre vent at the back. Again the Continentals tend not to conform to this, and it shows.

Peak (pointed) lapels with a button hole in each is the standard, but this can vary occasionally.

Business suits traditionally are in various shades of grey, dark blue and black. Either in a plain or a variety of striped patterns. Brown and green colours are more for the sporting occasions or week-end wear; as are checked patterns. But the more subtle checks on grey, dark blue and black are becoming acceptable

TWEED SUITS

A British tweed suit is tailored from a heavy, tuff, usually green or brown, often bold checked fabrics; the best of which are woven in Scotland. The genuine British tweed suit is rough to the touch, but very good at keeping out the cold, rain and wind. They are made to be worn outdoors, and are often seen at race meetings and shooting parties.

TWEED SUIT STYLES

Usually worn as a three piece suit; the jacket always has three buttons, a single centre vent at the back and usually slanted side pockets with flaps, with an additional small outside “ticket” pocket on the right. Sometimes “action” pleats are sewn into the back to facilitate greater movement, especially for shooting. In which case plus two or plus four knickerbockers would also be worn. Versions made from less harsh and lighter fabrics are also available, which may be more suitable for town wear and comfortable indoors. But they are not business suits.