MORNING DRESS
This is formal day wear. Worn at weddings, funerals, formal garden parties and
at race meetings. The morning coat is black or grey. If in doubt wear black. They
used to be called “cut away” coats, because they are frock coats with the corners
cut away. Black mourning coats are worn with grey striped or hound tooth trousers,
although sometimes more colourful variations can be seen; always without turn
ups. Grey morning coats have to be worn with matching trousers.
MORNING DRESS ACCESSORIES
A vest must always be worn, which can be single or double breasted; traditionally dove grey, but increasingly, colourful vests are becoming more popular. A colourful shirt with white collar and cuffs can be an interesting addition. A top hat in black or grey is often worn, but at a funeral, it must be black. The tie should be plain grey, but colourful ties can be acceptable, depending on the occasion. Shoes should be black oxfords.
BLACK TIE
Dinner Jackets, or DJ’s, are worn as a suit for formal dinners, formal parties, evening parties and balls. Also known as a Tuxedo; the name originating from the Tuxedo Club in New York, where the formal evening wear, without the usual tails, were first said to be worn in 1886. In Germany and most of central Europe it is called a “smoking” and the name “dinnerjaket” is reserved for the white tuxedo. The English smoking jacket is not the same.
BLACK TIE STYLES
The jacket can be either double or single breasted, traditionally both with a peaked lapel faced with silk. Alternatively a shawl collar may be substituted. A plain black or dark navy, medium to lightweight fabric is usual, but discreet small patterns woven into the fabric is acceptable. Always worn with a white dress shirt and a black bow tie; which you should always tie yourself. The trousers are matching black or dark navy with a silk braid on the outside seams. The trousers should never have turn ups. A white tuxedo may be worn in a warm climate, but always with black trousers. Shoes should be black patent leather, or black loafers.
WHITE TIE
The most formal attire for a gentleman; full evening dress. Worn at very formal balls, formal civic functions and occasionally to the opera. It is also worn at some evening weddings, and on stage if you can dance like Fred Astaire.
The tail coat must be black and always single breasted which cannot be buttoned up. Always worn with a white waistcoat, made from cotton pique. The matching trousers have double silk braids on the outside seams and are never worn with turn-ups. The trousers have to have a high waist band to ensure that they are covered by the waist coat; so they have to be supported by braces. The dress shirt is trimmed with a panel on the front with white pique, which is usually repeated on the cuffs and the shirt is always fastened with studs. The cuffs are single, worn with cuff links and it has a winged collar. The bow tie has to be white cotton pique.
WHITE TIE ACCESSORIES
A white silk scarf should not be worn, except with an overcoat. A silver topped cane and a silk top hat used to complete the picture, but now this is very rare, as are white gloves. But white gloves may still be a requirement at certain grand civic functions.
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