MAKING A BESPOKE SUIT

MAKING A PATTERN

Bespoke Suit From the detailed measurements and details of the configuration, a plan is made of each panel of the suit, using the Block (basic pattern) that has been tried and tested over many years. There are up to 52 separate panels. These are responsible for the “good cut” of the suit. Each panel is cut and shaped according to your individual size and configuration. This provides the overall plan of the suit.

CUTTING THE SUIT

Hand Cut Tailored The individual panels are then laid on the fabric and the fabric is marked out by drawing around the separate panels with tailor’s chalk. This has to be done with a lot of care to ensure that the pattern of the fabric matches and follows through at the various seams. The fabric is then carefully cut by hand.

BASTING

The individual parts of the jacket are then sewn together using baste stitches in a white cotton thread; some of the inner linings and shoulder pads are also fitted. We now have the jacket ready for you to try on. This is your first fitting. The reason for the white cotton is that after the fitting, it will be taken apart. The loose white cotton is easy to see and cut. A lot of this stitching is done by hand.

FIRST FITTING

At the first fitting, you will be able to see the garment taking shape and it will be adjusted as and where necessary, to meet your requirements. At this stage, a lot of the garment can be altered. The garment will then be taken apart and re-cut to accommodate the agreed changes

FINISHING

The garment will then be carefully sewn together; the collar and linings fitted and at each stage pressed with a hand iron to form it into shaped. Button holes are sewn in and finally it is pressed. This is a highly skilled part of the operation, which gives the suit its final shape.

FINAL FITTING

We are now ready, after some eight weeks, for the final fitting. This is when the garment gets its final inspection and you become the owner of a Bespoke Suit. But the odd nip and tuck may still be required, which is normal and part of the service.